Short answer: most people need one of these, not all three. They solve different problems, they don't share a mechanism, and there's no order to use them in.
ungro is built on one structure and three things it can be doing. The hair is growing normally and can't get out: that's release. The hair is growing perfectly well and you didn't want it: that's reduce. The hair is wanted, at a site where the growing phase is naturally short, so it sheds before it gets far: that's support. Same anatomy, three different problems, nothing else in common.
All three are on sale. The Brow & Lash Serum is the newest of them and the slowest to judge, and what is known about it, along with what it has not been shown to do, is set out in full further down and on its own page.
Which one is for you?
| Ingrown Hair Oil | Smooth Gel | Brow & Lash Serum | |
|---|---|---|---|
| The state | Release | Reduce | Support |
| The problem | A hair is growing normally and can't get out | A hair is growing perfectly well and you didn't want it | The hair is wanted, at a site where the growing phase is naturally short |
| What you see | Raised bumps, redness, a dark hair visible under the skin | More hair, coarser, back faster than you'd like | Brows and lashes that stay short and sparse-looking however long you leave them |
| Format | Anhydrous oil, roller | Water-based gel, roller | Light water-continuous serum |
| Why that format | Its hero active is an oil-phase lipid | Both actives are supplied in water | Its active is an oil-phase lipid, and a lash line can't take a neat oil |
| Give it | 2–3 weeks of daily use | 4–6 weeks — a full growth cycle | Months rather than weeks; brow and lash cycles are long |
| Where | Bikini line, underarms, legs, neck, jawline | Legs, underarms, bikini line, chest, face | The brow line and the lash line, nowhere else |
| Size and price | 50 ml $49 · 10 ml $19 | 50 ml $49 · 10 ml $19 | 6 ml $49 |
| What it won't do | Prevent ingrown hairs, or clear an infected lesion | Remove hair, or treat any hormonal condition | Change your natural lash length or your eye colour. No number for length, density or count. |
If you have both problems in different places, the set is both 50 ml rollers for $89.
What sits behind the serum
It's a light serum for brows and lashes, 6 ml, formulated around Growth Oléoactif: a COSMOS-certified botanical active from roselle flower and safflower floret, extracted into sunflower seed oil by the same process behind the active in our ingrown hair oil. Eleven ingredients. No fragrance, no colour, no essential oils, and no prostaglandin analogues, which given this category's history is probably the first thing you wanted to know.
There is no human data behind it. None. No consumer assessment, no instrumental measure, no photography under a fixed protocol, and nothing at all on brows or lashes. The published work behind the safflower half of the active was done in cell culture and in cultured mouse follicles. For the roselle half we hold no published hair-specific evidence at all, and we've asked the supplier what it contributes and on what basis.
So the ceiling is what the formula contains and how the brow and lash line looks and feels with continued use. It conditions the brow and lash line. It will not change your natural lash length or your eye colour. You will not get a number for length, density or count out of us, and you will not read "clinically proven" here.
Give it months rather than weeks, and read the product page before you buy it rather than after.
Why does one brand make an oil, a gel and a serum?
Because the actives decided, and we let them.
The oil is anhydrous because its hero active is an oil-phase lipid and can't be carried any other way. The gel is water-based because both of its actives are supplied in water.
The serum is water-continuous for a reason that pulls in two directions at once. Its active is an oil-phase lipid, so on chemistry alone the answer would be an oil. But a neat oil can't go on a lash line: it migrates, it wicks into the eye, and it won't stay where you put it. A light water phase carries an oil-soluble active to a site that can't take a neat one. Third state, third format, third reason.
Almost every product in this category is an oil regardless of what's in it — because oil is what the category looks like, not because the chemistry requires it. Three formulas, three formats, three reasons, all of them verifiable from the published INCI in about a minute. It's the most useful sentence we own and the easiest one to check.
Why aren't these sold as a set of steps?
Because they aren't steps.
The category's reflex is to build a regimen and sell you the whole thing. We're not doing that. These products share an anatomical target — the follicle — and nothing else. They don't share a mechanism, and how one goes for you predicts nothing about the other.
A third state doesn't weaken that argument, it hardens it. Release, reduce and support cannot be a sequence: two of them want the hair gone and one of them wants it kept. There is no order that makes sense of all three at once, which is the clearest possible proof that this was never a routine.
There is no step one. There is no full range to complete. There will not be a five-step routine, and there will not be a scent collection.
What kind of evidence sits behind any of them?
The same standard applies to everything on this site: every mechanism says what was actually studied and in what — cells, mice, or people — in the same sentence as the claim.
No ungro formula has been tested on people for efficacy. Most of the mechanism work behind these actives is cell-level or enzyme-level, done in a lab. Some of it is supplier data whose study design we've asked for and haven't received, and where that's true we say so on the page rather than leaving a gap you'd fill in optimistically.
The serum is the starkest version of that standard. It is on sale with no human data behind it, and its own page says exactly that, in those words, near the top, instead of leaving you to work it out. The alternative was to sell it in the supplier's language, and we're not doing that.
That reads weaker than a bare mechanism. It's meant to. The category is full of unlabelled mechanisms and a reader can no longer tell any of them apart, so being legible is the point.
Every ingredient, with what's behind it →
The three states, and the follicle biology under them →
What ungro doesn't make
Nothing for scalp thinning, hair loss or haircare. Different biology, medical-adjacent, and the honest answer there is usually a doctor. We have no product for it and won't imply one.
Nothing permanent. Hair removal that lasts isn't achievable with anything you put on your skin, and we'd rather say that than sell around it.
Nothing with a prostaglandin analogue in it. Not in the serum, not anywhere on this site.
Formulated by a cosmetic chemist in New Zealand. Made and packed in small batches, with a batch number on every bottle.